Michael Williams

So much pain in our love of the train


January 1, 2010 The Independent

There are few love affairs more passionate than that of the British with their trains. On a basic level it’s obvious. We invented the railways and pride in the great heroes of the railway age – the Stephensons, Trevithick, Brunel – runs through our DNA.

But like all the best love affairs it’s a more complex and contradictory relationship than this – which is why we all get very worked up about the RMT leader Bob Crow and why we all heaved such a sigh of relief that he’s had his come-uppance in his attempt to call a national rail strike – if only for the time being.

In fact, statistically, relatively few of us travel on the railways at all – a tiny 8 percent of all journeys in Britain are by train and seven in ten of all rail journeys begin or end in London. Yet the railways have a disproportionate grip on the national psyche. We grumble about high fares on trains we never travel on, and poor fare in buffet cars we have never patronised. Leaves on the line, the “wrong kind of snow”, the curling railway sandwich are the stuff of legend. A national newspaper editor recently told me a knocking story about the railways on his front page could add 20,000 to the circulation.

But beware of overstepping the mark. Deep in the British soul the railways represent an idyll that we challenge at our peril, even if we never travel by train. It’s the innocent world of Thomas the Tank Engine, Oh, Mr Porter!, The Titfield Thunderbolt, and The Railway Children. In our mind’s eye we see that country branch line with wheezing old engine, milk churns on the platform and the porter’s cat slumbering on the station seat. As the distinguished railway writer  Hamilton Ellis once put it: “Surely it was always summer when we took our first rail journey! Brother Bob has acquired the status of national bogeyman precisely because we care so very deeply.

Like the best love affairs, too, here is an attachment that defies explanation “The curious but intense pleasure that is given to many by railway trains is both an art and a mystery,” wrote the historian Roger Lloyd. “ It is an art because the pleasure to be had is exactly proportionate to the enthusiasm one puts into it. It is a mystery because is impossible to explain to others.” He says: “The connection between the sight of a railway engine and a deep feeling of satisfaction is very real for multitudes of people, but it eludes rational analysis.”

What is certain is that the fascination appears to develop at a young age and pass through the generations. How else do you account for children who have never been on a train – let alone their parents – still thrilling in vast numbers to the implausible adventures of  some quaint old steam engines with funny faces, written by a fusty provincial clergyman in the 1950s?

There’s not just collective nostalgia at work here. Last weekend I took my eight-year-old son to the Festival of Model Railways at London’s Alexandra Palace. It was not full of sad stereotypical men with anoraks, vacuum flasks wearing enamel badges and sporting peculiar haircuts. Here were thousands of ordinary families clearly having a great day out to celebrate what is still reckoned to be Britain’s biggest indoor hobby. This Easter weekend, it will be the same all over the country with families young and old turning out to visit one of Britain’s 100-plus preserved railways which play a big part in the British leisure industry, carrying six million passengers a year, employing 20,000 staff and volunteers, and with a total mileage bigger than the London Tube system.

Others will be standing at the lineside to watch a mainline steam express train pass by. (Though it is fashionable to moan about rail privatisation, its “open access” rules permit the running of historic “giants of steam “on the main lines in the 21st century.) Not long ago I travelled on a record-breaking London to Edinburgh run with the Top Gear presenter Jeremy Clarkson at the regulator of Britain’s newest mainline steam locomotive Tornado, built by a group of enthusiasts who had clubbed together to raise £3m to build it. Not only did thousands of ordinary folk line the tracks to wave Tornado on its way (many of whom would probably re-inhabit their alter egos as angry commuters the following morning), but Britain’s most famous petrolhead became a true convert.

Now the strike threat is lifted, others may choose to explore the national network on lines which offer some of the greatest journeys on the planet. I’ve spent the past year travelling on some of these country railways in the remotest parts of Britain for a new book to mark the approaching  fiftieth anniversary of the Beeching Report. Even today Richard Beeching, infamous chairman of British Railways in the 1960s, stands, like Bob Crow, high in the national pantheon of evil ( he was recently named in a popular newspaper as one of the “fifty people who buggered up Britain”). Thankfully, many of the lines targeted for  Beeching’s famous axe were reprieved through the efforts of dogged campaigners in folk in local communities. So today we still can travel past the magical lochs, mountains and valleys of Scotland’s West Highland line, recently voted the most scenic in the world. Or t the other end of Britain take the slow train from St Erth to St Ives in Cornwall, with surely the most beautiful seaside views from any railway in Europe.

Feeling the urge to try something more historical? This Easter a full-size replica of Stephenson’s Rocket is running passenger trips on 150 metres of specially constructed track near the Albert Memorial in London. Now here’s a piece of railway line that Bob Crow will never be able to get his hands on.

On The Slow Train: Twelve Great British Railway Journeys by Michael Williams is published by Preface Publishing on April 15, price £14.99.


January 1, 2010 The Independent

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