ONCE, on a luxury train journey from Venice to London, I sat in the dining car alongside a couple who looked very grumpy indeed. She was pouting. He was in a sulk. It couldn’t have been the menu – which offered a splendid repast of freshly cooked food. They must have had an almighty row, I thought. But all of a sudden the mood changed. There couldn’t have been a happier pair in the carriage. They leant across to explain […]